Tanzawa
(Mt To & Mt Hiru)

The Tanzawa (Japanese: 丹沢) range is a hyakumeizan* that forms one of Kanagawa’s great mountain backbones. most hikers visit the eastern part of the range, which is a long, forested ridge rising sharply above the Kanto plain and running deep into the interior of the Kii Peninsula’s northern fringe. Beginning from Okura, the trail climbs steadily through humid, cedar‑lined forest toward Mt Tō (塔ノ岳, also known as Tonodake), the first major summit on the ridge. The topography here is steep and sustained, shaped by ancient uplift and the complex folding of submarine volcanic rock. Valleys plunge deeply on either side, and the ridge itself rises in long waves, giving the landscape a rugged character. This route is marked by an extremely long series of wooden steps that can test even the fittest of hikers.

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Many hikers only make it to Tonodake, but those like me seeking longer adventures continue along the ridge into the interior of the range. Mt Tanzawa (丹沢山), the central peak, stands at the heart of the massif, offering views that stretch west toward Mt Fuji (富士山), south across the deep green folds of the Tanzawa interior, and east over the Kanto plain. From there, many continue to Mt Hiru (蛭ヶ岳, Hirugatake), the highest point in the range. It's a long ridge walk that many hikers break into a 2-day hike by staying at the Hirugatake mountain hut.

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The range is rich in life including even the occasional black bear in the deeper valleys. Yet Tanzawa is also known for a less welcome inhabitant. The yamabiru are mountain leeches that thrive in the warm, wet months. In summer, especially after rain, they rise from the leaf litter in astonishing numbers, clinging to boots and socks with unnerving persistence. As a result, many hikers prefer to visit Tanzawa in the colder months. I especially enjoyed climbing in winter, when the temperatures are less severe than other Japanese mountain ranges and snowfall relatively light.

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* 100 famous mountains of Japan

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(All information here is based on personal observations and experiences. Check official sources before planning or starting any hikes.)