Mt Hakuun &
Mt Aka

Mt Hakuun (Japanese: 白雲岳) and Mt Aka (赤岳) form a quiet, expansive arc along the high backbone of Daisetsuzan, two peaks that sit between the steaming volcanic world of Mt Asahi (旭岳) and the flower covered eastern ridges above Ginsendai. Though close to one another, they offer subtly different atmospheres. Hakuun is broad and airy and Aka is steeper and more vivid, yet together they create one of the most rewarding ridge journeys in the range.

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I've climbed these mountains from two different directions. From the west, the approach begins at Mt Asahi with its fumaroles, alpine ponds and open volcanic slopes. The trail climbs steadily toward the high ridge, leaving the sulfur vents behind and entering the quiet interior of Omote‑Daisetsu. Here the terrain softens into wide plateaus and scattered boulder fields, the landscape shaped by long erosion rather than recent volcanic activity. Mt Hakuun rises gently from this high ground, its summit slightly offset from the main ridge and offering a commanding view over the Chubetsu River basin. It is a spacious, wind‑washed mountain that is home to a large number of brown bears. I enjoyed staying at the emergency hut below the peak.

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From the east, the character changes. Ginsendai, perched high above the Kamikawa basin, is famous for its early‑season flowers and brilliant autumn colors, and the ascent of Mt Aka begins immediately with steep, flower‑rich slopes. The trail climbs quickly through alpine plants before reaching the higher ridges. Mt Aka’s summit is smaller and more compact than Hakuun’s, but its position on the eastern edge of the range gives it a dramatic outlook with the deep interior of Daisetsuzan to the west, and the rolling foothills of Kamikawa spreading outward to the east. In autumn, it's celebrated for its spectacular foliage.

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The traverse between the two peaks is a long, gentle sweep across open alpine ground, crossing lingering snowfields and passing through zones rich with summer flowers. From Asahi, reaching Hakuun is a steady half‑day climb; from Ginsendai, Aka is a shorter but steeper ascent. Linking the two creates a full day’s journey along one of Daisetsuzan’s most atmospheric ridges, and was one of my favourite hikes in Hokkaido.

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(All information here is based on personal observations and experiences. Check official sources before planning or starting any hikes.)