Mt Okuhotaka &
Mt Maehotaka

Mt Okuhotaka (Japanese: 奥穂高岳) and Mt Maehotaka (前穂高岳), commonly known as Okuho and Maeho, form one of the most dramatic and demanding sections of the North Alps. They are peaks where steep rock, narrow ridges and sweeping alpine scenery come together. They are among Japan’s most celebrated mountains, and climbing them requires both physical strength and careful attention to the terrain. "Mt Hotaka" is listed as a hyakumeizan*, although most hikers take Okuho as the mountain you need to climb to achieve the goal.

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Most hikers approach Okuhotaka from the Kamikōchi side, with routes leading through Dakesawa or up the more technical Kaerazu‑no‑Ken and Gendarme sections. The ascent from Dakesawa is long but straightforward, rising through forest and then into open alpine basins before reaching the Hotaka ridgeline. From there, the route to Maehotaka involves exposed traverses, chains and rocky scrambles. The ridge between the two peaks is narrow and dramatic, with steep drops on both sides and several danger spots where a slip would be serious. Even in summer, the rock can be slick, and weather changes quickly.

Flora and fauna add a gentler dimension to the climb. In early season, alpine flowers bloom along the slopes, and higher up it’s common to see rock ptarmigans quietly moving among the stones. The contrast between delicate life and harsh terrain is one of the charms of the Hotaka range.

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I’ve climbed Okuhotaka and Maehotaka a couple of times, both times approaching from Dakesawa and descending via the Zaitengrat ridge toward Karasawa. That descent is one of the most beautiful in the North Alps with broad views, rugged ridges and the vast Karasawa cirque opening below like a natural amphitheater. Each time, the traverse between the peaks has felt exhilarating and demanding, a route that rewards careful movement and steady nerves.

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Okuhotaka and Maehotaka are mountains that leave a deep impression. Their combination of difficulty, exposure, and alpine beauty makes them unforgettable, and every climb feels like a genuine achievement.

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* 100 famous mountains of Japan

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(All information here is based on personal observations and experiences. Check official sources before planning or starting any hikes.)