Mt Tsurugi

Mt Tsurugi (Japanese: 剱岳) is one of the most iconic and  formidable peaks in the North Alps. Instantly recognizable for its distinctive shape, it's a hyakumeizan* mountain whose very name evokes steep ridges, exposed traverses and the kind of physical and mental effort that defines true alpine climbing in Japan. It is not a peak to be taken lightly because the topography is famously severe. The mountain rises in a jagged tower of rock and broken ridgelines, carved by centuries of heavy snow and fierce winds. Its flanks are steep, its gullies narrow and its ridges sharp enough to demand constant attention. Snow lingers late into summer, and even in good conditions the terrain feels raw and uncompromising. 

​

There is no easy way to reach Tsurugi. The main trailheads are Murodo on the Tateyama side and the long approach from Banbajima in the north. The former in particular leads into routes that quickly become perilous, while the latter is notoriously tough. The classic ascent from Murodo via Tsurugisawa is steep, exposed and threaded with fixed chains that guide climbers across slabs and narrow ledges. The more advanced routes, such as the Kenzan ridge or the legendary Kani-no-tateba traverse, require calm nerves and precise movement. Every step demands focus, and the mountain’s reputation for danger is well earned.

​

I selected the physically demanding but less exposed Hayatsuki ridge from Banbajima when I climbed Tsurugi. When the sky is clear, the views from the summit are out of this world with Tateyama (立山) rising in massive layers to the west, the deep trench of the Kurobe valley below and the serrated skyline of the North Alps stretching toward Yarigatake (槍ヶ岳) and Hotaka (穂高連峰). 

​

The exposure, the steepness and the constant need for careful judgment make Tsurugi a peak that tests confidence as much as strength. But for those who undertake the journey, Tsurugi offers one of the most powerful and unforgettable experiences in the Japanese Alps.

​

* Japan's 100 famous mountains

​

(All information here is based on personal observations and experiences. Check official sources before planning or starting any hikes.)