Mt Tengu

Among the many mountains of Japan, few have drawn me back as often as Mt. Tengu (Tengudake) in the Yatsugatake Range. Standing in central Japan between Nagano and Yamanashi Prefectures, it is a mountain I have climbed countless times, reaching both its distinctive summits: East Tengu (Higashi-Tengudake) and West Tengu (Nishi-Tengudake). Mt Tengu is included among the nihyakumeizan*.

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One of the reasons I keep returning is its accessibility and proximity to my house in nearby Suwa. Mt Tengu can be approached from several different trailheads, including the spa at Karasawa Kosen, the onsen hotel at Shubu-no-yu, which is my favoured winter trailhead due to its relatively easy access. It's also accessible from the rocky ridge line to the south, including the Sakuradaira trailhead that is more well known for access to neighbouring Mt Io. The variety of access points allows hikers to choose routes that suit their experience, available time and the season. Whether you prefer a straightforward day hike or a longer ridge traverse through the Yatsugatake Mountains, there are plenty of options.

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What makes Mt Tengu particularly special is that it can be climbed throughout the year. In summer, hikers are rewarded with alpine scenery, fresh mountain air and expansive views across central Japan. The green season can also bring the crowds, especially on weekends and holidays. In winter, the mountain transforms into a harsh, snowy landscape that attracts mountaineers looking for a relatively accessible introduction to winter hiking in Japan. Of course, winter conditions require appropriate skills and equipment, but the mountain remains a popular destination even in the colder months, although climbers are far fewer than in winter.

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The rocky ridge line is also memorable for another reason: the wind. On calm days, the views from the two peaks are magnificent, stretching across the Yatsugatake chain and beyond. On other days, however, the mountain can be astonishingly hostile. I have experienced winds there so strong that simply standing upright became difficult. In fact, I have turned back on several occasions because the conditionsfelt unsafe, including one time when I poked my head above the sheltering trees as I entered the ridge. Those experiences have taught me a healthy respect for the mountain and for the rapidly changing weather that characterizes many Japanese alpine areas.

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For hikers unfamiliar with Japan, Mt Tengu offers an excellent introduction to the country’s mountain culture. It combines well-maintained trails, dramatic scenery, mountain huts, and the opportunity to experience all four seasons on the same peak. Whether you visit in the lush green months of summer or the snow-covered depths of winter, it is a mountain that rewards repeat visits. For me, that is exactly why it has become one of my most frequently climbed peaks.

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* 200 famous mountains of Japan

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(All information here is based on personal observations and experiences. Check official sources before planning or starting any hikes.)